Vitamin D and Your Skin: What’s the Deal?

Docs shed some light on how the “sunshine vitamin” affects your complexion.

Vitamin D sure is a hot topic these days. About one third of the U.S. population has low levels, and it’s been touted as a cure-all for everything from depression to heart disease and skin cancer. With all the talk going on, there’s a lot of back-and-forth over the full range of D’s superpowers.

But most recently added to the list? Mega anti-ager.

Here’s the thing: We already know that skin is a crucial catalyst and gateway for vitamin D to get to where it needs to in the body. “Vitamin D is primarily synthesized in skin exposed to UV light, if not obtained by diet or supplements,” explains Jean Y. Tang, M.D., Ph.D., assistant professor of dermatology at Stanford University School of Medicine.

And since over time, the skin’s ability to create vitamin D decreases (up to 75 percent from the age of 20 to 70) you’ll eventually have to pop more vitamin D supplements to reach standard levels than when you were younger. (That’s one of the reasons why Grandma is more likely to be diagnosed with osteoporosis, because of D’s crucial role in bone health.)

But does D play a much more superficial role? “Vitamin D is a key ingredient for beautiful looking skin,” says Dennis Gross, M.D., a dermatologist in New York City and creator of his namesake skincare line. “Skin, like all organs, needs vital vitamins to function properly—and vitamin D is one of them.”

Dr. Gross has spent the last few years researching the D-skin connection, really one of the only experts to do so in the dermatology community, making him a lone ranger of sorts. And the benefits he’s uncovered from poring over the existing vitamin D research and observing his own patients’ experiences are expansive. Having sufficient vitamin D in the skin helps minimize acne, boost elasticity, stimulate collagen production, enhance radiance, and lessen lines and the appearance of dark spots, he says. It’s this laundry list, plus anecdotal evidence from seeing patients day in and day out at his NYC office, that led him to create skincare with D right in the bottle. “Many of my patients have vitamin D deficiencies as a result of avoiding the sun and wearing a daily sunscreen in fear of premature aging and cancer,” he says. “Together, we noticed that their skin had a sallow and dull appearance, which I believed to be an adverse effect from low levels of vitamin D.”

After heading to the lab, Dr. Gross says he saw that popping a D pill wasn’t the only way to make sure you got enough of the much needed to your complexion—the skin could get it directly from a product. “I came up with a formula that I immediately began testing on patients and then witnessed a dramatic reversal of symptoms, even after one application,” he says. “I then began applying Active Vitamin D Serum-Oil to patients who weren't deficient and noticed similar beneficial results. The immediate results were enough to convince anyone who may have originally been skeptical.”

So, how does it work? “It already contains an active form of vitamin D2 (aka ergocalciferol, a plant source of vitamin D) and doesn’t require sunlight to start giving skin the benefits of vitamin D,” says Dr. Gross. “Taking a Vitamin D supplement orally, while benefiting the body, will not give you the same skincare benefits as daily, topical application.” And to be clear, a topical D product won’t raise the levels in your body, so it’s not a substitute for supplements or vitamin D-rich foods.

Experts don’t dispute the fact that vitamin D plays a crucial and positive role in the skin. “Vitamin D is important for control of the natural immune protective mechanisms of the skin,” Richard L. Gallo, M.D., Ph.D., chief of the division of dermatology at the University of California in San Diego. It’s just that many docs aren’t yet convinced that slathering on creams can increase D in the skin. “In order for vitamin D to play its role in the body it has to go through a process called hydroxylation, which means it has to pass through the liver then the kidney to turn into an active form that’s then circulated around the body,” says Kathleen Fairfield, M.D., assistant professor at Tufts University School of Medicine. “So, even if you apply a topical form of vitamin D, it has to be absorbed, hydroxylated, and then sent back to the skin.”

This is where the topic of D’s role in the skin gets sticky. Dr. Gross counters this point by explaining that vitamin D2 is sourced from a plant, and therefore has already been activated by the sun. Dr. Fairfield maintains that D2 still has to go through the same process in the body in order to be effective.

The bright side? If you can give skin a boost of D from the outside in, great. If not, you’re still benefiting from the products’ (be it from DG Skincare or other D-infused products) main prettifying purpose—let it be sun protection, hydration, exfoliation even a faux-glow. But regardless, you still need to practice sun safety and fill your plate with foods naturally rich in D (like tuna or salmon) or those that get it added in (like cereal or milk) or pop a 600-1000 IU supplement to be sure that every day body, skin, the whole shebang get some D.

5 Best Nutrition Bars

What to look for, and avoid, in your on-the-go wellness snack.

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It used to be that anything in a “nutrition” bar form tasted like cardboard. As a foodie, I couldn’t consider it “food.” But now you’ve got a lot of choices – in fact, you might find that there are so many varieties that you’re not sure which is the best bet.

So here’s a list to help you pick one that’s just-right for you. (By the way, the bars I’m recommending are designed as a snack to give you a nutrition boost between meals, not bars that are designed to replace meals, give athletes a performance edge, or treat medical conditions).

Look at what’s in it. Don’t worry about the number of ingredients. Instead, see what those ingredients are. If they look like they could go into a recipe, that’s a good starting point. Be sure that the first ingredient is a whole plant food source, like ground whole soybeans, almonds, or raisins. And if you see the word “artificial,” leave it on the shelf.

Do a quick check of these five key nutrition facts: calories, saturated fat, trans fat, dietary fiber, and protein. Look for a bar that provides up to 200 calories. Anything significantly over 200 calories could be bad news if you want to manage your weight. Be sure that the bar provides no more than 15% of the Daily Value (DV) for saturated fat (3 or fewer grams) and 0% DV for trans fat to keep it heart-friendly. Plus, aim for at least 3 grams each of fiber and protein to help give you a feeling of fullness.

Don’t worry too much about the vitamins and minerals. If you’re getting a balanced bar made with whole plant-based ingredients, you’ll be getting whole nutrition. If you already take a multivitamin supplement, you don’t need bars that are loaded with added vitamins and minerals.

Remember that taste rules. You can’t determine how tasty your nutrition bar is without actually opening it, but reading through the ingredient list will help. If you like the sound of items on the ingredient list, give it a try. There’s no reason why your nutrition bar shouldn’t taste good! And if you don’t like the taste of one, there’s plenty more to choose from.

These tasty, nutrient-rich bars stand up to our checklist test.

For choosy palates:
Larabar
Flavor: Cocoa Môlé
Calories: 190; Saturated Fat: 1g; Trans Fat: 0g; Fiber: 5g; Protein: 4g

If you’re into full flavors, this bar will wow your tastebuds.

For nuttiness:
KIND Fruit + Nut
Flavor: Nut Delight
Calories: 200; Saturated Fat: 2g; Trans Fat: 0g; Fiber: 3g; Protein: 7g

A nut lover’s dream.

For the crunchies:
Barbara’s Crunchy Organic Granola Bars
Flavor: Oats & Honey
Calories: 190; Saturated Fat: 1g; Trans Fat: 0g; Fiber: 3g; Protein: 4g

Great choice for women who eat little or no meat as it provides 8% of the daily value for iron.

For whole soy goodness:
SOYJOY Baked Whole Soy & Fruit Bar
Flavor: Apple Walnut
Calories: 140; Saturated Fat: 2.5g; Trans Fat: 0g; Fiber: 3g; Protein: 4g

For fresh-from-the-oven essence, unwrap and gently heat in the microwave for 15 seconds.

For dessert aficionados:
Kashi TLC Tasty Little Chewies
Flavor: Raspberry Chocolate
Calories: 120; Saturated Fat: 0.5g; Trans Fat: 0g; Fiber: 4g; Protein: 4g

A delicious way to boost your intake of health-promoting whole grains.

How to Wear Makeup When You Exercise

Look, we know you wear makeup to the gym. Here's how to doll yourself up without ending with smeared cheeks and a face full of pimples.

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We’ve all been there. You know it’s not the greatest idea to wear makeup during a rigorous workout, but you do it anyway.

You may not have time to wash your face in between work and the gym, or perhaps you have a job that causes you to perspire to some degree (hello, Pilates instructors!). Maybe you just want to look picture perfect while you exercise—hey, we’re not here to judge.

If you don’t select the right products, though, you could wind up looking like a hot mess, your date-night palette smeared on your face at the end of your workout. Experts agree it’s not advisable to wear makeup while exercising. If it’s not designed to withstand perspiration, it will come off, and when you sweat you create an ideal environment for breakouts (sweat plus makeup equals a breeding ground for zit-causing bacteria).

But we know many women would rather die than go to the gym without their blemishes and dark spots covered. So if you’re in that category, follow the experts’ guidance. Your complexion will thank you.

Makeup advice from the pros

YouBeauty Cosmetic Chemistry Expert Ni’Kita Wilson says when shopping for cosmetics that can take the heat of a vigorous workout, “look for the most transfer-resistant makeup possible; it has a better chance of surviving your workout or physically demanding job. Pick a makeup with light coverage. Heavier coverage makeup has more pigment and is more likely to get caught in your pores, causing breakouts.”

Silicone-based foundations are best suited to exercise conditions, according to makeup artist Kevin James Bennett, a cosmetics expert for the International Esthetics Advisory Board of Leslie Baumann, M.D., dermatologist and author of The Skin Type Solution.

“The cosmetic silicone molecules are too large to penetrate or become lodged in pores and are naturally water resistant,” he says.

Rae Cosmetics (a line of makeup designed for active women) Founder Rochelle Rae says makeup worn during exercise should be oil-free, allowing the skin to breathe.

“Oil-based cosmetics trap the sweat under the makeup, forcing it [to smear],” she says.

Another buzz kill: The American Academy of Dermatology says if you’re prone to breakouts, oil-based moisturizers and makeup can cause acne, whiteheads, and blackheads. To avoid looking like a pizza-faced teenager, the organization recommends selecting products that are “non-comedogenic” or “non-acnegenic.”

Block those rays

GET GUSSIED UP

Try these natural-look makeup application tips from Rae Cosmetics Founder Rochelle Rae:

• Lighten up your makeup routine. Skip the heavy foundation and opt for a lightweight, oil-free tinted moisturizer.
• Apply a primer first. Primer provides a smooth, matte surface for makeup application and helps keep makeup from sliding off.
• Protect your pout. Lip products with SPF, such as Rae Cosmetics Lip Shade SPF 15, protect your smackers and prevent chapping. Rae recommends choosing pinks and corals for exercise. “The lighter shades look less messy if you have to wipe the sweat off your upper lip,” she says.
• Blot. Blotting papers are essential. Rae suggests pressing a sheet or two on your skin to get rid of shine. “You can dust on a bit of powder if you need it, but always blot first to keep the powder from caking, leaving you with a nice glow,” she says.

Bikers and hikers take note: Sunscreen is an active woman’s best line of defense against skin damage, says Dr. Baumann.

“Women should wear sunscreen daily, especially if they’re active outside. The product they choose needs to be as waterproof as possible,” she advises.

Dr. Baumann recommends a brand of sunscreen with a good UVA blocker such as La Roche-Posay Anthelios, Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch orSkinCeuticals Sport UV Defense. She prefersSkinCeuticals Physical Fusion UV Defense over foundation because it’s a tinted sunscreen that can take the place of regular, non-protecting makeup.

Dr. Baumann has a word of advice for women with what she describes as “red rosacea-like, stinging skin.”

“It’s best they not wash their faces prior to exercise, because the natural oils on the skin may protect it from the harshness of sweat,” she says.

She encourages all women to wash their faces after a workout to prevent pimples even further.

Cosmetic brands to try

CoverFX: Bennett recommends this line, developed in conjunction with a dermatologist, because the products are oil-free and ideal for women suffering from sensitive skin conditions like rosacea.

Skindinavia: The Original Makeup Finishing Spray is an oil-free product that prevents makeup from slipping, melting and creasing, without the need for touch-ups and blotting.

Rae Cosmetics: Rae developed a line of mineral-based cosmetics with non-chemical sunscreen that’s a go-to for many active women and athletes. The prevalence of heavy, pore-choking makeup in the beauty industry inspired her to create longer lasting, natural-looking cosmetics for women who sweat. The cosmetics contain titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, minerals that are insoluble, meaning they stay put even when you sweat.

Thinly Veiled

Women tend to shy away from discussing hair thinning and loss, but the problem is more common than you’d think. Here’s how to deal.

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In an age where Botox derms and Brazilian waxers are readily discussed, there are few beauty taboos left.

While it certainly seems like we’ve seen it all (hello Kardashian bikini line!), one thing that’s still swept under the rug, er, so to speak? “Hair loss in women is different because unlike men, women aren’texpected to go bald,” explains Robert Bernstein, M.D., founder of the prestigious Bernstein Medical Center for Hair Restoration in New York City.

But while the stigma associated with female hair thinning and loss makes the subject feel taboo, it’s an extremely common complaint. “There’s a misconception that hair loss in women is rare,” Bernstein continues. Truth is, 30 percent of women will experience some form of thinning, whether they’re dishing about it on Facebook or not.

Compounding the issue? “For women, the underlying causes can be a more complicated issue,” he says. Your scalp contains about 100,000 hairs, and you generally lose roughly 100 of them each day. But what’s normal, and what’s not? Here’s what’s really going on, and what you can do about it.

What Gives?

Let’s face it: When it comes to physical changes, hair thinning is alarming, and hair loss? Well, that’s just downright devastating. It’s said to be one of the most personally distressing side effects of chemotherapy, and anyone who’s lost a clump of hair can relate to the accompanying feeling of shock and powerlessness.

Psychologically, it’s a world apart from other so-called beauty “problems” like peeling nails or even breakouts, but just like wrinkles, hair simply tends to thin with age. Another common complaint is that the hair seems to simply stop growing, which is totally related. “It can also just be growing slower because [with age], the growth cycles become shorter,” says Dr. Bernstein.

Here’s the deal: Experts call age-onset thinning “miniaturization,” which refers to a progressive decrease of the hair shaft’s diameter and length. This happens at least in part because of androgens like dihydrotestosterone (or DHT), a derivative of the male hormone testosterone that causes hair follicles to literally shrink in diameter. This type of hair thinning is referred to as androgenic alopecia, and it occurs in an equal pattern all over the scalp. And if this sounds bad, consider yourselves lucky ladies, because for men (and some women), this condition usually manifests as more distinct patterns or “patches” of baldness, which tends to be way more noticeable.

This hormonal connection is also one way that thinning hair can be more complicated to diagnose in women. Pregnancy, ovarian cysts, medications, emotional or physical shock, and birth control pills can affect hormone levels. “With women, there can be underlying causes,” says Bernstein. “You have to check for medical problems. For example, polycystic ovarian disease can exacerbate androgens and manifest as thinning, in which case you could treat the condition with an androgen blocker like spironolactone.”

Heredity also plays a role in hair thinning and loss for both sexes. Ever heard the idea that if baldness runs in the men on your mothers’ side, a male spawn is likely to go bald too? Here’s a surprising update on that old wives’ tale: Dr. Bernstein asserts that baldness on either side of family can be indicative for genetic hair loss whether you’re a male or a female.

If you’ve ever noticed an alarming amount of hair—we’re talking about clumps—in your drain or on a hairbrush, think back a few months. That’s because this type of loss, called telogen effluvium, is caused when a trauma triggers the hair in growing phase to shift to shedding phase, usually about six weeks to three months after the event. A “trauma” can be defined as a major surgery, childbirth, or yes, a total stress freakout. While there are cases of this being a chronic disorder, luckily, the shedding phase is usually reversible.

There are many other, less common types of hair loss (consult Dr. Bernstein’s super educational site, which offers extensive details) that can be diagnosed by a doc who can administer a “pull test” in order to examine factors such as the diameter of the follicle and what growth stage individual strands are in. 

What Helps, What Doesn’t

Lately, it seems a few members of the beauty industry have woken up and decided to start marketing anti-hair loss and anti-thinning products to women. But buyer beware: According to Dr. Bernstein, there’s simply no scientific evidence that any of these trendy new ingredients and herbal concoctions work. And prescription Propecia, also known as finasteride, which helps to lower DHT levels in men, “is not FDA-approved for women,” he says. “Some doctors use it, but there’s some indication that it points to breast problems, so I don’t recommend it.” A two percent minoxidil product, known over-the-counter as Rogaine, can help, but consistency is key: “It has to be used regularly; at least once a day, if not twice.”

In more extreme cases, some women are candidates for Follicular Unit Extraction (FUE) Hair Transplants, a procedure by which hair is removed directly from the donor region of the scalp and grafted on to thin or bald spots. The latest technology? Because the implant process is so precise, a new device utilizes an image-guided robotic arm to get the job done.

Perhaps more importantly, here’s what not to do if you’re looking to prevent hair loss or don’t want to make a bad sitch worse. While the logical step may seem to be adding hair extensions, unless they’re clip-in and you religiously take them out in the evenings, they’ll only damage hair and even cause more thinning and loss via aggressive rubbing and pulling, which is also referred to as traction alopecia. (For this reason, you also want to avoid tight ponytails, headbands, cornrows, and any hairstyle or accessory that can pull strands against the scalp.) Instead, Dr. Bernstein recommends superficial thickening via Toppik, a readily-available cosmetic keratin fiber that binds to the scalp and hair when you shake it onto thinning areas and makes it appear more full.

And an even simpler solution? Change your part and lighten your hair. “Honestly, I tell my patients that grooming can take [them] a long way,” says Bernstein. While simply shifting a part works for obvious reasons, he points out that color-wise, “people tend to go darker... they think this will mask the problem, but it only emphasizes it. Light reflects more from light, so a lighter hair color provides less contrast between the hair and the scalp.” Additionally, a light perm or wave will give hair more body and make it look thicker, and frequent haircuts will help prevent breakage.

As for maintaining the hair you’ve got, don’t neglect the “root of the problem,” so to speak, your scalp. "A healthy scalp is as important for healthy hair as healthy gums are for healthy teeth,” says David Kingsley, Ph.D., a trichologist and author of the book, The Hair-Loss Cure: A Self-Help Guide. While it’s rare for scalp issues to cause thinning or loss, conditions like oiliness or dryness can totally affect the way hair looks. For example, “a greasy scalp will make the hair look limp and thin,” he points out. He recommends making dietary changes: reduce dairy and fatty foods, as these can cause more flaking, and get tested for iron deficiency. (He also makes a scalp mask and scalp therapy for hair loss.) Finally, as hair thins, it tends to break more easily as well. “The coating that holds in water becomes drier and more brittle,” says Dr. Bernstein, so be sure to condition well to keep strands hydrated and healthy. After all, you moisturize your face to plump away the look of those aforementioned wrinkles, right?

15 Worst Beauty Trends Over Time

For all of the plucking and primping ladies (and plenty of men) indulge in, there is definitely a science to looking good. Want to score a mate? All you need to project are "full lips, clear skin, smooth skin, clear eyes, lustrous hair, good muscle tone and body fat distribution," says one distinguished evolutionary psychologist.

Want to kick butt at work? A recent study shows a little makeup goes a long way in terms of conveying competency on the job. Still, evidence alone doesn't seem to prevent us from testing the parameters of gorgeousity via wacky new ways to style our hair and paint our faces, which seem to deliberately contradict the rules of natural selection. Behold, the worst beauty trends to have emerged over the last half century.